WARNING THIS CASE INVOLVES RISK FOR THE PERSON
Soda: Sodium hydroxide, NaOH chemical formula, you buy at the supermarket such as caustic soda.
It should be handled with gloves and glasses because it is precisely caustic, dissolved in water produces heat.
Potassium nitrate: potassium nitrate or KNO3 chimina formula, you buy the farmer's association, is surely a fertilizer is sold in 50 kg bags, or in the wholesales of food products in bags of a kilo.
There are special risks when handling it.
The official recipe consists of:
- 300 grams of nitrate
- 500 grams of soda
- 1000 grams of water
Take a stainless steel container, pour in the following order water, soda, nitrate.
Place the flask on an electric or gas stove, bring to boiling, stirring occasionally to make the dissolution of the products.
The solution thus 'ready should boil between 135 and 145 degrees, if you have the chance' to measure the temperature better.
Degrease well for the pieces to be polished with a suitable detergent (eg dishwashing detergent) I for example use the Fulcron.
Handle the parts with rubber gloves so your hands do not leave traces of fat on the piece.
If you really want to do things to perfection, he is also from a past in hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid).
Dip the pieces into the boiling solution by keeping them connected with a wire, preferably stainless steel wire.
Boil the pieces in for 20-30 minutes checking them from time to time to see the color you want.
During the process evaporates water, then with CAREFULLY restore a ladle with the water that is evaporated, take great care, because 'diluting the solution is lowered to the boiling point and then the mixture tends to squirt (the ladle, with a handle , allows to keep a certain distance).
Once the process of browning, remove the pieces, wash them in running water, clean grattandoli with a scouring pad (the classic yellow and green), dry and oil them for good, let sit for a couple of days in a lightly oiled rag.
The bruntura is a proceso that protects against corrosion all steel (excluding stainless steel that can not be brown), this process is normally used on guns, gun barrels, barrel, bolt, etc..
Such protection is certainly not comparable to a zinc or a chrome ...
The protective layer of a few microns is formed from iron oxides, (hematite), which protect, passivando the lower layers.
Aesthetically, the result is' really catchy.
The polished pieces are always kept slightly oiled.
The blueing made with this system is from the point of view of the protection of the many burnishers certainly better cold that is available commercially.
To dispose of the burnishing solution (which should still be reusable) when cooled dilute it with water.
ALWAYS PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO WEAR GLASSES AND GLOVES.
THE SOLUTION 'FOR THE PERCOLOSA TEMPERATURE (140 DEGREES) AND FOR THE PRESENCE OF STRONGLY CAUSTIC SODA (Causes burns).
IN CASE OF ACCIDENTAL CONTACT WITH THE SOLUTION RINSE WITH WATER.
Source: Forum CNC Italy
November 27, 2009 24:34
I'm Antonio, the process of browning hot and herringbone clearly and beautifully. But I wanted to bring attention to the fumes during the boiling of the solution both before and during the burnishing: if you can put in the explanations, however, already packed with information, should run the process nn brunitara for boiling hot indoors or sprovisti a special aspirator for the gas which produces during the evaporation. With the information published.
December 11, 2009 00:18
I did some burnishing of different types of metals and the system and results are excellent. I just want to make clear to those who try to burnish with these hot systems, that when water is added to the solution during browning, pour it very slowly, otherwise you may have a solution with the trabboccamento coseguenze ovie. With this message, I take this opportunity to thank the author of recommendations for this type of browning.
Thanks to Antonio.
January 8, 2010 17:30
a question, but after any further step in hydrochloric acid and, before immersing in the solution èezzi brunente, must somehow undo the effects of acid, or you may proceed directly?
January 10, 2010 01:16
Hello Massimo,
after pickling in acid does not apply special procedures, if not the foresight to "drip" the piece and not leave too long it will in the solution in the air after treatment, the treated metal being very sensitive to oxidation.
But I have great experience in this regard, then I suggest you ask the source of the article, or if you wish, and CNC forum, posting comments in the response received.
January 24, 2010 14:06
As for the acid treatment: you answers on how to proceed after having done? I have a feeling that needs rinsing after treatment. Thank you.
January 31, 2010 23:33
To neutralize the effect of the acid must dip (just briefly) in a solution of baking soda and water as basic vanishes.
Or even in a solution of caustic soda, but here we must be more careful.
April 27, 2010 08:48
but if the water reaches a maximum at 90 degrees then evaporates how do you get it to 145 degrees
April 27, 2010 09:31
Hello Joseph,
I think you are missing some basic physics and chemistry; distilled water at sea level boils at 100 degrees, maybe you're in the mountains to here from you boils at 90 (although the evaporation avviane even at 20 degrees).
If you read carefully what is boiled distilled water but is not a solution of salts that make raise the boiling temperature of approximately 135-145 degrees.
June 6, 2010 01:23
Hi, I brown the receiver of the rifle, which is gray in the original silver, which I can use acids? Bronze color it also would not mind.
Thanks
June 9, 2010 17:23
Hello John,
I do not mean guns, depends on the material it is made, but you could do the normal burnishing, or alternatively there are products for cold blueing.
If possible I suggest you do some tests on a piece of the same material.
July 16, 2010 06:28
CIOA, I tried to brown the pieces on a lathe made in C40, just out of the bathroom were beautiful, but then came back in the varli almost like the first, before immersing them I sgassati thoroughly with the solvent, then when I removed them from bathroom I've been washed with water and straw, which can be the cause dell'isuccesso?
Thanks for the help, hello Marty.
July 16, 2010 10:30
Hello Marty,
as written at the end of the process the pieces are "scratched" with a scouring pad, to understand those from the other side green and yellow that you use a kitchen, certainly not with a steel wool!
I would say that you just removed the blueing.
July 16, 2010 12:09
Hello,
I used a sponge with the green ones that are used in cooking, but only maneggiandoli under running water layer black squagliava.
Something must be wrong there.
Hello thank you, Marty.
October 8, 2010 09:35
The above statements are clear, very understandable and easy to apply.
I ribrunito the carriage of a Kimber 1911, just follow the steps, and the result has been truly amazing ...
October 11, 2010 09:57
It is very important to use ..... d `stainless steel containers, to avoid the dissolution of the" pot ", and subsequent divorce from his wife, following the flood of sewage that would flood the burners of the stove ....` Who knows why you know ...
November 18, 2010 01:07
prejudice to all who can tell me if this works with burnishing the barrel of a gun ... if you need to isolate the interior to avoid damaging the chrome? And ... how to remove the old damaged and browning on some points of rust?
thanks
January 3, 2011 17:35
Hello all.
I used this method and it is great, but some parts of me are lolore yellow, what is the reason?
Thanks
March 19, 2011 21:36
Hi myself the same question of Gianluca, as you remove the old blueing and rust?
I heard that goes away with the Viakal, and true?
Thanks
April 6, 2011 24:29
Referring to the question on March 19, to remove the old Browning to my beretta 81 removed by soaking it for three days in a solution of a liter of white wine vinegar and salt to table (about three tablespoons) and staining was taken alone. -
March 26, 2011 16:22
Referring to the question of gianluca, remained unanswered, because I too would like to brown the barrels of a shotgun Vechio, given the high temperature at which it operates, which excludes the possibility of using effective stoppers or similar, I think you have brown the inside of the pipes (mine are chrome), possibly preventing too drastic for degreasing and then remove the polishing with a brush dipped in a suitable liquid (such viacal, exclude the muriatic acid). I think that it is not difficult. of course, doing this is to be protected adegutamente eserno of the rods to prevent damage to the polishing done soon, maybe spennellandone ends with liquid wax. I go to occio course, without any specific prior experience.
anyone agree?
April 10, 2011 01:51
ciaooooooooo. I tried to do the burnishing said as well as with potassium nitrate from agricultural consortium ... I let it boil for a whole afternoon ... on a beretta 34, 1942 that was without burnishing and many camolature .... was finely sanded schifoooooo raised the moths Tenedos written and everything and so ribrunito, ovviemnte removed all the pieces ... well I got the first beretta 34 "EMO", carriage color like the rainbow-colored oil burned with beautiful reflections of the rainbow emo ... came ... and the rest black, even if I did something wrong because I left the apple for all it was cute ... I could send pictures you would see from before to after ... uff .... good for you to experiment with the recipe ....
April 21, 2011 21:03
I read the instructions very carefully and after, is the first recipe on the practice of burnishing, so-called home.
I, personally, when I use an industrial solution given to me by one of the many burnishers / chromers present in my area (Pescara), evidently, is very similar to what is described here.
I must be noted that with regard to colorings strange appearance, all dimende by both the operation of preparation of the piece, the more you brush (glossy) and the more you fat is better, for the purposes of the final result; however returning to the colorations personal experience and taught me how, with the industrial product mentioned, changing the colors (to be clear like the feathers of the magpie) are due to temperatures soto of 140/145 ° - while the reddish colors - sometimes tending to yellowish - are due to the concentration of the solution that "lacks" of water and, therefore, the piece is "oxidized", in the jargon say burns, rust.
Moving on to the final stage of the polishing operation, after removing the piece from the bathroom, you pass it sciacqundolo, for a few seconds in clean water to purify it from the solution, then you pass me the sponge-term-with emulsifiable oil that emulsionandosi with aqueous tracks present on the piece ensures lubrication while avoiding the ossidazioine (it is purchased in stores and specialized hardware for turners, in fact is used for the cooling of turning tools during machining by chip, and assumes a coloring milky, (cheap: about 5/6 euros per liter.
Available for culteriori clarification.
Greetings. Dan
October 5, 2011 10:32
hello
kindly, could you explain what you mean when you write "lacks water"?
For if you mean that the solution used is water poor or too rich?
Thank Aticipatamente
mark
December 13, 2011 13:35
I would like to ask a question.
I would brown the pieces of the process but eventually they must be brown or rust could you tell me how this is done browning '?
December 25, 2011 17:47
Hello Dan could better explain the fact that temperatures affect the color?? Thank you again.
Andrea
January 15, 2012 09:25
I try
January 25, 2012 21:51
These products are fine to give the right color with a rifle exordinanza? that is, a beautiful black covering that does not reveal the barrel? are not found around the salt ready for use?
Thanks
January 25, 2012 22:36
If the gun is only for display, if well executed with excellent results hot burnishing, the burnishing cold with various commercial products is very simple but can not give the same results.
If you've never tried before doing tests on pieces of little value and see how you can.
January 27, 2012 17:17
I need your advice .. I would venture to run the hot burnishing, making a few phone calls I found a store that has chemicals available potassium nitrate (pure guess) to 12 € per kg, caustic soda lho found in a discount store ..
The problem is that I have a suitable container to dip the piece .. I do not know what to do, what can I use? or build me?
January 27, 2012 17:20
The piece is very long barrel of a gun.
February 4, 2012 13:43
Hello ... I would burnish the barrel of my rifle, I read all the instructions carefully, but I do not know how to fill the barrel to avoid damaging the inside, can you tell me how? hello thanks ..